Paris.

Roman-style pasta counter in the Marais — two tables, generous portions, order the Figus.

Canal Saint-Martin brunch spot on Rue Lucien Sampaix; the savoury stack with bourbon butter is the only order that matters.

Montmartre sandwich spot doing croque variations worth the Rue des Trois Frères detour — order the Croque Mam'zelle.

Vegetarian small plates in the Marais — the hummus alone justifies the reservation.

French-Korean tasting menus in Montmartre, four courses from €55 — the scallop starter alone justifies the booking.

Lebanese cooking on Rue Mazarine in the 6ᵉ — the mezze spread here is the whole point.

Modern European cooking in the 9ᵉ with a rotating menu — the beef tartare with parmesan is the one to order.

Lebanese cooking on Rue Véron in Montmartre — sit at the bar counter and watch the charcoal bread come out.